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 Liberator gun model specifics
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| Corgimodeller |
Posted on 31-08-2025 11:26
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 Ungraded  Posts: 3 Joined: 30.08.25 |
Hi everyone. I’m having issues trying to find some info, and issues navigating this website. I’m in the process of making a replica Liberator gun model, and am looking for help making the model. I have a resin model kit, so most of the body is sorted. I did buy the Blake’s 7 technical manuals, but they only show the actual gun, not the holster, belt or pouches. If anyone has made a gun with working light and sounds, or made their own leather pouches or holster holder I’d be grateful for any help. While most kits either come with slot or philips crews to assemble the gun body the one clear photo I have of an original gun on display shows fixings that look a bit like pop rivet heads. Any help identifying the correct fixings would also be appreciated. |
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| Joe Dredd |
Posted on 09-09-2025 11:32
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 Moderator  Posts: 2391 Joined: 15.01.22 |
I'd love to see this kind of information on the website, but I'm afraid we don't have it. There's a lot of diverse B7 websites out there. I wish we could centralise them further. One day we will have the fantastic Sevencyclopaedia on the site, but I have no idea when that will be. In the meantime, I recommend the www.therpf.com but it looks like you've found that site already. If you want to make a series of posts detailing your build, or provide any information you find out, please do. It would be great to have some information to share. |
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| Corgimodeller |
Posted on 28-09-2025 08:53
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Ungraded Posts: 3 Joined: 30.08.25 |
I'd love to see this kind of information on the website, but I'm afraid we don't have it. There's a lot of diverse B7 websites out there. I wish we could centralise them further. One day we will have the fantastic Sevencyclopaedia on the site, but I have no idea when that will be. In the meantime, I recommend the www.therpf.com but it looks like you've found that site already. If you want to make a series of posts detailing your build, or provide any information you find out, please do. It would be great to have some information to share. I don’t have much detailed info to help anyone else, apart from some of the more obvious and perhaps already well known things. Using a genuine Black and Decker drill side handle makes things easier, and it’s the correct part and has the correct level of gloss finish. A warm white bulb or LED is closer to he original prop lighting than a cool white one. The Friedland doorbell button used for the gun trigger is still easy to find. Use the complete bell punch button for a non working prop, or just glue the black button part to a normal momentary switch for a working prop. Using lockable DIN plugs like on the original props isn’t hard to do. Look at pics of the original RS pro plugs to see the way they have two sets of ridges running at ninety degree to each other. The curly cord needs to have round cable, not squared off cable. Old headphone or telephone cable will do for this, but not newer telephone cable. The power packs for the guns were white, not black as many modellers seem to prefer. I settled on using an imperial size for the power packs of: 1.5 x 3 x 5 inches. The screw in DIN connector on the power pack has the locking segment facing the middle of the power pack, not towards the outside. The early plain ‘veg tan’ leather pouches were made from two layers of thin leather, so a modern 1.5mm thick leather works well. The press studs on the pouch straps look like they were 15mm/0.5 inch in size. |
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